Bob Zuch's 82 320is daily driver. 9.8:1 2100cc engine. Ported head. TEP 284 Camshaft. 
TEP Front Strut brace. Cold Air Induction. 
Rear shock tower brace and battery relocation. 2" exhaust with high flow cat and Walker rear muffler. 

320I E21 Road Race / Auto-X Suspension 

Doing an E21 properly is quite a bit more work than doing a 2002. There are inherent problems with your chassis that the extra weight only makes worse when it gets on a race track. Fortunately we have raced a 320I for 3 years and have figured all this stuff out. Here is exactly how we have set up the last 10+ cars we have built. All are competitive in their respective groups and have been very consistent top 5 and occasionally winning cars. As the drivers dial them in I am certain they will have even better success. These are the components you will need and the work either yourself or someone you trust will have to do. It is assumed that you will make sure all the standard parts ( Ball joints, wheel bearings, brakes, Etc, are up to par )

Front: Parts

Complete coil-over conversion with adjustable camber plates $575.00

Camber Plates, Upper and Lower Perches, Springs, Threaded Collars

Spring rates vary from 300 lb to 500 lb depending on the car and the track. We

Start with 400 lb for I.T use and 350 lb for Auto-X

Camber should be set at about 2.5 negative for Auto-X and 3.5-4 negative for 

Road race. Toe should be at 1/6" IN total.

Bilstein Sport Strut inserts for short strut housings $129.00 ea

25mm sway bar with urethane bushings. ( Priced as pair with 19mm rear ) $399 pr.

New lower control arms with ball joints and H/D bushes installed $89.00 ea

Upper Strut Tower Brace $179.00

Engine Torque Brace option for Strut Tower Brace. (Add to cost of brace) $85.00

Urethane Steering Rack Bushings $65

Rear: Parts

Bilstein Sport Shocks $139.00 ea

Bolt-On Coil Over conversion with new Bilstein Sports, Threaded Collars, 2.5" Coil Over Springs and upper spring seats. Ready to bolt In.
$599 for the Pair.

Solid Rear Sub-Frame mounts $100.00 pr NLA

19mm Adjustable rear sway bar ( See 25mm front bar for pair pricing ) $219.00

Rear Urethane trailing arm bushings ( set of 4 ) $59.00

Rear shock tower brace with battery re-location kit ( 77-83) $199.00

Front K&N Filter conversion with pipe. For use after battery has been moved. (81-83 ) $149.00

Package with rear brace and Air Filter kit $29


When doing an early E21 with the funky fuel injection the best thing to do with the filter Is to put a K&N element into the stock box and drill a bunch of holes in the lid. ( Or just Cut out the center and just leave the lip to hold the filter. ) 

Labor:

Shorten front strut housings and install struts and threaded collars $90.00 pair

Slot rear subframe for camber and toe adjustment $100.00 Using your subframe

After setting alignment weld washers in place. Do Not Leave Adjustable. It Will Move. I Promise.

Re-Enforce rear subframe arms and diff carrier. $275.00 Using your subframe

This is critical to do. I know it says it is not legal but if you do not do it you will be replacing subframes at a tremendous rate and your camber and toe will change during the race from the amount of flex. No one will notice if you do it discreetly and you can always argue it is a safety issue, besides, everyone laughs at a 320I race car anyway. They certainly don't look for cheating in the rear subframe.

Good used Subframe with slotting and re-enforcement done. $550.00 Outright

Brakes:

R4 Carbon Kevlar Racing Pads $139.00

Steel Braided Brake Line Kit $120.00

R4 Carbon Kevlar Racing Brake Shoes $189.00

81-83 Big Front Brake Conversion:

Bolt on kit with Vented Rotors, 4 Piston Calipers, Metal Master Brake Pads

Steel Braided brake line set and hardware. $635

All our engines are built to order. We are not a production engine rebuilder. All engines are treated as individual projects and afforded the attention needed to make then outlast and outperform any other engine available. We prefer to build the engine core that was in your car, but we will supply engines on an outright No-Core basis when the need arises. 

80% of the engines we build fall into one category. Normally Aspirated ( Carb or F.I. Non-Turbo ) Performance street engines that need to run on Unleaded Pump Gas (92-93 Octane). 

For those of you looking for a full on Race engine , I.T. Legal Race Engine or a Turbo Prepared engine please contact us for specific info and to discuss your needs.

All Top-End Performance engines, from stock to GT Road race, go through the same basic processes. We do not cut corners. 

After Disassembly 

All cylinder heads are pressure tested and inspected for cracks.

Although we can successfully repair cracked heads we prefer to just get another casting to work with. We reserve the crack repairs for special heads that are difficult to replace or have so much money invested in modifications already that it is more practical to repair them then scrap them

• All Engine blocks are Hot Tanked and Magnafluxed for cracks. 
• Cranks are cleaned and measured for journal size and roundness. 
• Con rods are check for straightness and magnafluxed for cracks.
• We are clean freaks when it comes to engines. 
• All parts are hot tanked or cold tanked as needed. 
• All blocks are scrubbed and brushed out 
• All blocks get new Freeze plugs installed 
• All blocks are painted with high quality engine enamel 
• All Aluminum parts are bead blasted to look as new as possible.

We do not paint Aluminum parts like heads, timing covers, oil filter housings, etc.

We do offer various coatings for valve covers depending on what you want.

Since we replace everything else the inspection process is not that tough.

All block assemblies get .

• NEW JE Low Expansion Forged 2618 Alloy pistons in an oversize and compression ratio of your choice 
• New Total-Seal or Standard Plasma-Moly Piston rings 
• New Kolbenschmidt Rod and Main bearings 
• New German Oil Pump and pump drive gear 
• New German Timing and Oil pump chains. ( Non-Master link style ) 
• New guide and tensioner rails 
• New Rod Bolts and Nuts 
• New Head bolts ( Or ARP Head studs if requested ) 
• New German Water pump 
• We use only German Gaskets and Seals

All cylinder heads get 

• All new valve guides ( Late model guides that accept Viton small diameter seals. ) 
• New valves as needed 

On stock engines. Performance engines get all new Stainless Steel valves.

• Valve seats as needed 
• New Rocker Shafts 
• New Rocker Arms 
• New Valve springs

Either stock or dual performance springs

• Reground camshaft

Either stock or your choice of performance grinds.

Cylinder Heads:

We prefer to use the E12, E21 or 18I head castings. The 121 casting is very restrictive due to the small valves, shrouded chambers and poor port flow. For the sake of originality we will use the 121 casting on Tii applications. We can put the larger valves into it and open up the chambers to simulate the E12 casting. The Newer the casting the better. The year is cast right into the head so it is easy to tell how old it is.

Our block and head work is done in house on top notch equipment run by a machinist that is intimately familiar with BMW engines. Not another one of these Chevy or Ford guys that has never seen one of those pesky foreign cars. 

• All blocks are bored and honed with a Torque Plate. 
• All blocks are surface decked for flatness. 
• All con rods are Re-sized on the big ends and re-bushed on the small ends. 
• All crankshafts are micropolished and the oil holes are chamfered and detailed.

Any crank that gets re-ground is heat treated.

• All Cylinder heads are Blanchard ground Top and Bottom with the upper timing cover in place. 
• All valve jobs are 3 angle grinds. 

All valves are then Hand lapped and back-cut for max flow.

• All Engines are dynamically balanced from front pulley to flywheel.

Balancing is not an option. It is always done.

• All flywheels are re-surfaced.

These are the basics that go into every complete engine we build. From here we can modify the components and machine work to come up with a combination that suits your needs and budget.

Here are some examples of the common engine combinations we offer. One of these may suit you perfectly or we can do a custom package. All engines listed are built as Long Block assemblies. This means . Valve cover to oil pan less all external accessories like intake manifolds, exhaust manifolds, alternators, brackets, doo-dads, etc. All engines do include a New German water pump. 

Prices listed are based on using your good core either shipped to us or brought in already removed from the car. It assumes a rebuildable engine with a non-cracked head casting. We have a full shop and can due all the engine R&R work as well. That labor is not reflected in these prices.

2002 Performance Street engine for use with 2 barrel Weber carb and stock intake, Tii or Stock 320I C.I.S., 318I L-Jetronic or Mild Electronic F.I. Conversion.

These engines idle great and get very reasonable fuel economy for the performance delivered. Compression ratios of 9.5:1 and our 284-288 camshaft profiles. Mild street porting on the heads and intake manifold porting on the 2 bbl cars. 91mm bore for almost 2100cc displacement gives great torque increase across the power band.

ALL BMW M10 Engine build prices are based on you having a Re-Useable or Rebuildable Oil Pump in the engine core..
Should your Oil Pump NOT be serviceable a NEW pump will be $595

2002 or 320I Performance street engine for use with Dual Sidedraft Weber carbs or aggressive F.I. conversion like dual sidedraft throttle bodies.

Slightly lopey idle at approx. 1000-1100 RPM. 9.8:1 compression ratio. 91mm or 92mm big bore for 2100cc + displacement. Aggressive Street Head porting. 294 to 306 camshafts. Race prep on rods and crankshaft. Heavy duty dual valve springs. Mandatory use of Ignition upgrades. Tii Distributor. MSD Ignition package. Header. High flow muffler and pre-silencers. 2.25" exhaust pipe.

320I 1800 150-160HP engine build up. 2100cc conversion for use with stock CIS or L-Jetronic F.I. system.

This is the engine that makes it worthwhile to own an E21 320I or E30 318I. 2.0 crankshaft fitted to the 1800 block and rods with custom 92mm big bore pistons to take advantage of the 18I head and yield a 9.8:1 2100cc powerplant that makes a ton of torque and offers amazing driveability throughout the power band. Special cam profile for use with stock injection system gives good idle quality with great mid range and high RPM punch. When coupled with the stock exhaust manifold, a High-Flow Catalytic Converter and High-Flow Rear muffler, Ignition and Air filter upgrades it is no problem to make .

Addition of header negates smog laws in most areas.

M20, S14, and Big 6 Engine work:
Everything we do for the M10 engine we do for the S14 and 6 cylinders as well. Obviously the prices are different. Please contact us and we will get you a price for your particular project.

JE Forged Pistons for all BMW Engines

As we all know that is has become impossible to get oversize high compression pistons for all the older BMW engines. Years ago we started compiling blueprints and combustion chamber molds for all the combinations of head, crank, blocks, etc. We can supply you with pistons in any bore size or compression ratio for all M10, M20, S14, and Big 6 engines. I addition we can custom make pistons to any configuration you might want.

Total-Seal Gapless rings for all BMW engines:

It does not matter if you are doing a stock engine rebuild or building a race engine. Ring seal is directly related to power. The more compression you can keep in the hole the more power you will make and the less oil you will consume. TOTAL-SEAL GAPLESS RINGS ARE ALL WE USE IN ANY ENGINE WE BUILD.

For technical info and diagrams check out out our Total-Seal page. (click here.)

4 cylinder Total-Seal TS1 sets $159.00

6 cylinder Total-Seal TS1 sets $219.00

Camshaft and valve train upgrades for BMW engines

Camshafts

All our cams are available either as re-ground on stock cores or as NEW Billets. The 302, 316 and 328 require the use of lash caps. All cams are re-hardened and will have the same if not better life than the original unit. All reground cams are sold on an exchange basis with a $100.00 core charge if we happen to have a core available in stock. We can also grind your core. Turnaround time on cam grinding is 3-4 days. We have more grinds than just what are listed here. We have all the Euro cam masters as well as a variety of other upgrade cams that we can do. 

       All Performance Re-Grinds: 

4 Cylinder $159.    Small 6 $189.00     Big 6 $199.

       All NEW Performance Grinds: 

4 Cylinder $369     Small 6 $425    Big 6 $459

ITB Stealth Cheater Grind for IT Racing. Stock Lift. 286 duration.  Works good with stock springs.274 Baby 6 with K-Jetronic and Motronic Injection. 325I and 323I

278 Very mild street upgrade for stock engines284 Tii and 320i with C.I.S. Injection. Also 318I with L Jetronic288 All around great street cam for 2 bbl or sidedrafts. Our #1 choice 294 Okay for big 2 bbl or Sidedrafts. 9.6:1 or higher 300 Sidedrafts only. 10.0:1 up. 3800 - 7500302 Sidedrafts only. 10.5:1 up. 4000 - 7800316 Sidedrafts only. Road Race Only 11.5:1 up. 4500 - 8000328 Sidedrafts only. Road Race Only 12:1 up 5000 - 9000Lash Caps for cam adjusters 5.00 ea.Performance Valve Train Kits:This is a complete set of (4) Stainless Steel 46mm intake and (4) 38mm Exhaust valves(8) Titanium Retainers. Heavy duty Valve Locks. And Dual valve springs. A great performance upgrade for any level of street or track use. 4 cylinder $373

6 cylinder 445.00

    

    
818 764-1901     818 764-0155 fax    e-mail: topend@racetep.com

JE Forged Pistons for BMW Engines 
Forget the imitators and low price, low quality imposters. JE is the finest forged piston made for your Street or Race engine...Normally aspirated, Turbo, Supercharged, NOS..You name it and Top-End and JE can supply you a piston to fit your needs.
We are THE source for ALL BMW Forged pistons. 
OEM Parts for ALL BMW Models at Warehouse Direct Prices 
http://www.BMWCarPartz.com

Examples of Pistons we have made from Samples that were sent in to us showing what we can do for you 
Click Here for a list of Custom Options available on Made-To-Order pistons 

High Heat Ceramic Coated Crowns and Moly Coated skirts avaialble on all piston at the time of ordering for $40 per piston. This is a must for High Boost Turbo and NOS Appications 

Other lines we supply to go along with your JE Pistons. Click logo for information

BMW
We are the official JE Pistons BMW Distributor. We have the blueprints for all popular (and some not so popular) BMW engines in almost any Bore size, Compression ratio, Stroke, and Rod combination...If you call JE for BMW pistons chances are they will just refer you to us....

All BMW pistons are made to order and order time is usually 3-4 weeks. We have many of the Euro piston blueprints as well as the US models...In some cases if it is a dome that we do not have a profile for we may require a sample to make them but we have been able to make 90+% of the requested pistons just from our extensive library of BMW Blueprints and Job #'s. We recommend Total-Seal Gapless rings on all BMW sets. Please see our BMW page for more BMW Performance information. http://www.2002performance.com

OEM Parts for ALL BMW Models at Warehouse Direct Prices 
http://www.BMWCarPartz.com

JE Pistons are the finest quality aftermarket forged pistons available. The special 2618 aircraft alloy allows much tighter Piston-To-Wall clearances ( Typically .0035-.0045 )than all the other manufactures. This means a quiet street engine that does not need excessive temperatures to seal.

We are proud to be a JE Warehouse Distributor and can supply you with pistons for any Import engine at the best possible price. We will not be undersold on any shelf stock piston from JE. In addition to the shelf stock pistons that JE offers we can custom make you a piston for almost any application..Big bores, Turbo or NOS, Strokers, whatever you want, we can probably make it. Check our Custom Piston Order page for more information

As one of JE's biggest distributors we have very good order time on all custom sets...Our orders get priority and that means you will get your parts faster....Typically a custom set from us takes 3-4 weeks and sometimes even faster....If your piston has to be made from a sample it may take a little longer....Rush and Expedited orders are available for those engine emergencies. There is an extra fee for Rush orders but sometimes you just need them faster.... 

Click here to access our Custom Piston Quote Form.... We will get back to you with a price shortly.....

Step-1: Find out what is in the carb now ! Do not guess and think that you have the jetting that supposedly came from the Weber factory. Find out what Main Jets, Air Jets and Idle jets you have in your carb. If it is a progressive carb make a note of what what jets were in the Primary and what jets were in the secondary. The Primary is the barrel that opens first. If you have Sidedrafts or Downdrafts with removable venturis then find out what size venturis are in your carb(s).
This is CRITICAL. You cannot tune a carb without knowing what you are starting with. 

Idle Jets: You will normally need to drop 1 Idle jet size (Meaning a step of 5. 50 to 45) for every 2000 feet above 3000 feet of altitude. This assumes the car ran properly at seal level. If you have No Sea Level Reference then you just have to get a range of jets smaller than your starting point.

Main Jets: You will normally need to drop 1 main jet size (Meaning a step of 5. 150 to 145) for every 1000 feet above 3000 feet of altitude. This assumes the car ran properly at seal level. If you have No Sea Level Reference then you just have to get a range of jets smaller than your starting point.

Air Jets: You will normally need to Increase 2 Air jet sizes (Meaning a step of 10. 150 to 160) for every 1000 feet above 3000 feet of altitude. This assumes the car ran properly at seal level. If you have No Sea Level Reference then you just have to get a range of jets Larger than your starting point.

Flat Levels anf Fuel Pressure: No changes to these for High Altitude operation. 

There is no shortcut or magic formulas. You just have to work through it. The guidelines above are starting points based on correct seal level operation. You will just need to invest in a range of jets to properly tune the engine at the altitude you are operatin at.

Fuel delivery is critical to the proper performance of any Weber carb. From a basic 32/36 DGEV to a set of Triple Sidedraft DCOE's. Webers rely on a stable full float bowl in order to mix the fuel and air correctly. Mechanical pumps very rarely do this. They pulse fuel instead of giving a smooth even delivery and the amount of fuel varies with engine RPM. A Proper Electric Fuel pump will give the best performance and most stable tuning for any Weber carb application. We use only High Volme and Low Pressure pumps. Webers work best at approx 4 psi of fuel pressure (Not 2 psi like many of the older books stated.) and you need Volume not Pressure to keep the float bowl full.We ONLY use the Carter Rotary pumps. They are High Volume (60-70 GPH) but only 4 psi. This is PERFECT for all Weber applications from a Single 32/36 DGV on a Truck, Jeep or Car to a Triple Sidedraft setup on a Road Race car making 300 HP...This pump DOES NOT and SHOULD NOT use a Pressure Regulator for any reason. That is why we use it....   
Carter 4070 Fuel pump with Mounting Bracket kit 


Problem Pump and Regulator setups:
These are combinations that many of you are using and you could be experiencing problems because of it.

Holly Fuel Pumps with Regulator:
This is a very common combination and it has alot of problems. The pump puts out too much pressure so you have to buy a regulator for it. The Regulator is just a restrictor that inhibits flow. This causes a huge loss of Volume and overloads the pump causing alot of noise and premature failure. This results in the float bowl going low or empty under hard acceleration and causes cornering problems.

Facet Fuel Pump:
This is one of those little square pumps with the transistor mounted on top that make a ticking noise all the time. These pumps are TERRIBLE. No volume and High Pressure. These pumps have been sold for many years with Weber and Mikuni conversions and have cause many people alot of tuning problems. They are a pulse type pump that delivers almost no volume (usually less than the stock mechanical pump did) and usually at High Pressure. This cause flooding at idle and lean out conditions under high load. Do not use them....





Ignition Systems, Spark Output and Spark Advance:
This is a serious topic that seems to get ignored even by professional installers. The essence of a Weber conversion is that you are putting on a Larger carb that flows more fuel and Air to make more HP. Most older cars that are getting these carbs installed on them had very bad Point and Condensor Igntion systems with very low spark output. These systems were barely adequate for a stock carb let alone a performance upgrade. Adding even a single 32/36 carb to an old BMW, Opel, Etc will overload the stock ignitions systems capabilities. When you add Dual or Triple carbs you are really causing a problem. You are adding a bunch of extra Fuel and Air but not adding the extra fire needed to burn it properly. This results in jetting problems, rich running conditions, etc. If you are doing a conversion from a later model Fuel Injected car that had a decent Electronic Igntion system on it this will not be as much of a problem although you could have a problem with Spark Advance on these types of vehicles (Read below.)When doing a Weber conversion on an older Point type Ignition car it is a MUST to at least do an upgrade to Electronic Ignition with a higher output Coil and good wires and plugs. This will allow you to jet and tune the carb to its maximum HP and Fuel Economy potential. We use the Pertronix Ignition conversion on most vehicles ($89.00- $129.00) with the Bosch Red Coil ($45.00) and good plug wires and NGK SPark plugs. On dual and triple carb conversion we highly recommend the use of the MSD Spark Amplifiers with the Electronic Ignition. We offer these individually or in system packages like the Ultimate Spark Package we do for the BMW 2002. This will insure you have enough spark to burn all that extra fuel you are throwing at it. The difference in HP, Idle Quality, Cold Starts, and Fuel Economy are all very noticeable when doing the Ignition upgrades.

Spark advance is the other problem you are faced with. Most factory carb equipped cars have vacuum advance distributors. This is fine when installing a 32/36 or 38/38 because they have vacuum advance ports int the carb but when installing sidedrafts you do not have this option.

DO NOT hookup the distributor vacuum advance to the intake Manifold. That does not work and is a common mistake we see. If you do that you will pull full advance at idle then as soon as you open the throttle it loose vacuum and the timing will retard quickly causing a big stumble or flat spot and very bad throttle response. 

When running Sidedrafts you need to either get a centrifugal advance distributor or leave your vacuum advance disconnected and just run more initial timing. You usually need 12-14 degress advance at 1000 RPM and 36 degrees total by 3000 RPM for the carbs to react properly. These timing numbers are baseline estimates only and can vary from car to car. You have to make sure you do not have a detonation problem from too much advance. 

Okay This is the biggest problem we encounter with Carb installations and Fuel Injection systems .The big Questions .

What is a Vacuum Leak ?

A vacuum leak is any leak caused when sucking in Air either after the throttle plate of a carburetor or after the Air Metering device on a Fuel Injected car caused by a bad gasket, torn boot, improperly installed adapter plate or manifold gasket, etc .It is called a vacuum leak because the area below a throttle plate or metering device (Mass Air Sensor, Air Flow Meter, Etc.) is under vacuum when the car is at idle and part throttle .When there is a leak in this area you are not Leaking Vacuum but rather are sucking in un-metered air The term Vacuum leak has just been used for so long it is an accepted term

What problems does it cause ?

The major symptom of a vacuum leak is very poor idle quality, stalling, Spitting back through the Intake, and a very lean condition at part throttle .This is the most common problem when doing carb conversions where either adapter plates are used or new intake manifolds are fitted .On a Fuel Injected car with a Mass Air Sensor or Air Flow Meter this is allowing Un-Metered air into the engine..This is a huge problem as the computer is basing the fuel mixture on the amount of incoming air through the flow meter and the extra air sneaking in through the leak can cause a dangerous lean condition..This is especially true of Turbo cars like the Starion-Conquest where the Rubber Boot between the turbo and MAF can be cracked underneath where it is hard to see 

How Do I Find if I have one ?

The best method is to go to the Auto Parts store and get a can of Starting Fluid..This is basically Ether..This is a very volatile substance that is easily sucked into a leak and causes a dramatic change in engine running condition 

With the car at idle spray carefully around the base of the carb or throttle body, at the area where the manifold meets the head, around vacuum hoses and any connections either below the carb base or after the Mass Air or Air Flow Meters Any noticeable change in idle speed or quality will indicate a vacuum leak

How Do I get rid of it when I find it ?

That is the easy part .Just replace the gasket, hose, boot, or clamp that is causing the offending condition and all will be well again .

Tips for not getting vacuum leaks .

This is easy When doing a carb or manifold installation just make sure that you have the mounting surfaces VERY CLEAN and make sure you put fresh gaskets on all surfaces. Make sure the hardware is all in good condition and that you tighten the Manifold or Adapter properly..That means that you tighten it evenly and a little bit at a time to insure a proper even crush on the gaskets. If you are using an adapter plate you MUST use Red Loctite to secure the hardware holding the adapter plate to the Inlet manifold and plate to plate in those applications. Also use Blue Loctite to secure the carb mounting nuts This will insure it does not Vibrate loose causing a leak DO NOT USE SILICONE SEALER on intake manifold gaskets or adapter plates The Only sealer we recommend for these Surfaces is Gaskacinch which you can buy from any auto parts store 

Check all Vacuum hose connections and hose to make sure they are secured and not cracked. Any suspicious looking hoses should be replaced. When doing a Weber Conversion very often you have a lot of Vacuum ports that need to be plugged when installing the Non-Smog carb. Make very sure that you plug all unused vacuum ports on the manifold Even a very small port will cause a leak big enough to make the car not idle 

Basically just be very careful and meticulous about the installation .After you get the vehicle running it is always a good idea to check for leaks before trying to tune the carb. 

You CANNOT TUNE a carb or F.I. system that has a Vacuum leak .

Okay....This is going to be the Short Course in what you need to know to Tune and Jet your Weber Carbs successfully...This also applies to Mikuni, Solex, Etc....This is not specific info about specific cars or giving you magic jetting numbers. This is the process we use to tune a car when it is in our shop. I have over 25 years experience tuning these carbs and there is no magic to it. It is just a step by step process that once you get the hang of it you will be able to make your carbs work right every time. It involves more than just Jetting the carbs and in fact that step is the easiest....Following these steps and rules will also make it much easier when you are purchasing jets for your carb...This applies to a single 2 Barrel Downdraft 32/36 Carb or a set of Triple DCOE carbs or even a set of 4 Downdrafts on a V8 engine....The 2 books listed at the bottom of this page are invaluable tools for learning all the basics of your carbs and the various metered tuning pieces that are used in them. It is well worth the small investement in money and time to buy and read these books to help you better understand the carbs you spent all that money on. 

I am not going to explain everything about these carbs. The Weber Factory Tuning manual has all the good technical information already written. This is the backyard mechanics guide to the basics you need to know to make your carbs run right....

Step-1: If you are having a problem with how the engine runs...Poor idle quality, stalling, etc then this is the first thing to do. CHECK FOR VACUUM LEAKS ! This is particulary true of new installations where you just purchased and installed a conversion kit and you are having problems. You have to remember that most Weber conversion have been around for many years and have been installed on hundreds of cars and trucks. They work. The likelyhood of having a defective carb out of the box is about like being hit by lightning. If you are having a problem on a new install it is most likely this problem or one of the steps below... See the Vacuum leak tech page for this info. DO NOT OVERLOOK this as a problem...This is the #1 problem with any Weber carb conversion. 
* Do a compression test..If the compression is off by more than 10% per hole you will have a really bad time tuning the carbs.
* Always start with a fresh set of Spark Plugs. So not clean them...Start fresh. This will give you a good reading of fuel mixture and enable you to make a good judgement of what you need to do. 
* Set the Timing...Generally speaking you need a little more advance with a Weber than with the stock carb. A good place to start for most cars with Webers on pump gas is 12-14 Degrees advance at 1000 RPM idle and 36 Degrees total advance by 3000 RPM...This is not cast in stone and you need to make sure your car does not Detonate at these setting. If you get any detonation then you need to back off the timing...

Step-2: If you have a single carb you can skip this step...If you have multiple carbs then the 1st thing you need to do is make sure the carbs are Synchronized properly using a Correct Synch tool. This is CRITICAL to multiple carb performance...I don't care how good you think you are at synching a set of multiple carbs by ear (I'm very good and I'm not half as good as the tool is.) you are not close enough. The Synch tool will also alert you to other problems in the system like Bent throttle shafts, etc.... Linkage...This cannot be stressed too highly. Badly designed or Worn linkage is the #1 cause of problems with Multiple carb systems. More people have given up on Dual and Triple carb systems because of linkage than any other problems combined. If the carbs are not hooked together in a fashion that has no slop and allows minute adjustment between the carbs you are always going to have problems. Poor idle quality and "sticky high idle" problems are the most common symptom of this. A slight imbalance between the carbs at 1/3 throttle and up is not really noticeable to most people but a miniscule difference at idle will cause all sorts of problems. So in short...Get the carbs synched right FIRST. Repair or replace the linkage as needed to make them work together properly. 

Step-3: Know what is in your carb NOW. Do not rely on a list on a website or a book that says what your carb might have come with. Actually remove the jets and chokes and check the sizes and WRITE THEM DOWN. Use this formto write it in so you know what you have. You cannot make jet decisions unless you kow what you are starting with...

Step-4: Make Sure your Ignition system is working properly. Remember...A Weber carb is always a performance upgrade and is designed to deliver more fuel and air and make more HP then the stock carb did. This means you need to have adequate spark to burn the extra fuel or you will have problems tuning and jetting your carbs. This is especially true of old British cars and cars that have point type igntion systems. A lack of spark or weak spark will make it impossible to tune the carbs properly or to their maximum potential. This is especially true of all multiple carb installations. You cannot hang multiple carbs on any engine without an increase in spark output and even hope to burn the extra fuel being delivered. A good electronic Ignition system to replace points and the addition of an MSD unit and good coil and wires are the best way to go. See our Ignition tech page for more details.

Step-5: Make sure that your Fuel Delivery is right....Once again, you cannot tune carbs that do not have adequate or proper fuel delivery. See our Fuel pump Tech Page for this information. Do not ignore this step.

Step-6: Okay...Now that you have everything else sorted out ( Right ? You did do all that other boring stuff didn't you ? ) you can actually start tuning the carbs...The good news is that you probably made the car run good enough by doing those other steps that there is not alot else to do..... If your car is still not running properly or you feel that you should have more power (Be realistic about that. A 4 cylinder 2.0 with a 32/36 is only going to make about 120-125 HP max so don't expect miracles.) then it is time to jet and tune the carb(s) You need to establish if you are running lean or rich. There is no way around this. There are a few easy ways to establish this and it is important to know otherwise you cannot get different jets to cure the problem. You can be running Rich at idle and Lean on the main circuit and Vice Versa...You need to do a plug check....Unless you have access to a 3 Gas or 4 Gas anaylzer or Smog Machine to do your tuning then reading the plugs is the next best thing..Another good option is to install a Halmeter AF30 Air Fuel Ratio Gauge to help you with tuning. It is fast and accurate and will take alot of the guesswork out of it. This is a particularly valuable tool for cars that get track use so that you make sure you do not lean out and put a hole in a piston...

You need to check your spark plugs to see if you running rich or lean. White plugs are lean and Black plugs are Rich. Ideally you want the ceramic part of the plug a nice Dark Tan to medium Brown color with a slightly darker ring right at the base of the threads of the plug. A new set of plugs may take a few minutes to get some color on it...

Idle Mixture and Fuel Mixture:
There are alot of theories about setting idle mixture adjustment on a Weber carb to determine Rich or Lean jetting....A Weber will run correctly with the mixture screws from 1/2 turn to 3 turns out...The late style DCOE carbs with the extra Air Bleed Screws on the top take 2.5 to 3 turns to operate correctly...So you cannot say that because it is 1/2 turn out that you need smaller jets....You need to find what is right for that particular engine...An engine with a strong vacuum signal will draw more fuel in with less turns of the screw than an engine with a weak vacuum signal will...This is the kind of thing that throws the "certain number of turns" theory out the window..

The Mixture screw and idle circuit is CRITICAL to the overall driveability of the car. It does not just control idle but the entire low speed running and part throttle transition. The mixture screw lets in an ALREADY MIXED volume of Fuel and Air to the engine. This is not an Air Screw. The more you open it the more mixed fuel and air enters the engine. Clockwise is Leaner and Counter-Clockwise is Richer.

The mixture screew is very easy to set whether it be a downdraft, sidedraft or multiple sidedrafts. Start with the screw or screws out 1.5 turns....Start the car and let it warm up. Set the Idle SPEED to approx 900-1000 RPM..Make sure multiple carbs are synchronized...Turn the mixture screws in until the idle starts to stumble and get rough...On a sidedraft with 2 screws do them each a little at a time....Then back them out until the best idle quality is acheived. This is a very simple operation...The car should idle well and small adjustments leaner (Turning them in) should make the idle drop off. Opening the screws more should make it a bit richer but it should still idle. Assuming you have no vacuum leaks this is a very simple process. If you cannot get a good adjustment on these screws and you have to open the idle speed screws quite a bit to get the engine to idle there is a good chance you have a Vacuum Leak and you need to fix it. 

Specific Information on Mixture Screw Setting for:
32/36 DGV, DGEV Carbs. If you have to open the mixture screw more than 2 turns on a 32/36 DGV or 38 DGES your idle jets are too small...If you have to shut them below 1/2 turn they are too big....

38 DGES. If you have to open the mixture screw more than 2 turns on a 32/36 DGV or 38 DGES your idle jets are too small...If you have to shut them below 1/2 turn they are too big....Also the 38 DGES can be a little tricky because you are idling on both barrels at the same time. You have 2 mixture screws and they will not be set the same on most cars. This is because the plenum type manifold that they are on distributes fuel unevenly. By having 2 mixture screws you are delivering fuel from 2 places in the intake manifold. The Mixture screw closest to the engine will no doubt need to be in much farther than the outer mixture screw. This is Okay. I do not recommend Stagger jetting the idle circuit on a 38 DGES (In other words, do not use 2 different size idle jets even though you need to adjust the screws differently. This can cause part throttle dirveability issues.) 

DCOE Series and IDF / IDA. On a DCOE or multiple DCOE's you should be between 3/4 turn and 1.5 turns out for all older model DCOE's (DCOE 2, 9, 18, etc.) and 2 1/4 to 3 turns out for late style DCOES (151 and 152 with air bleed screws under the white caps.) 

Idle Jets and tuning the idle circuit: Very Simply..The bigger the number the richer the jet. A 50 Idle jet is a .5mm fuel hole. On the DCOE and IDA series carbs they have 2 numbers on them like 50F8. The 50 refers to the .5mm fuel hole and the F8 Refers to the Air Bleed hole in the side. 
A DGV, DFV, DGES mix the air internally in the carb and do not have these air bleed holes in the idle jet. In a DCOE you are acutally tuning the Air and Fuel for the idle circuit with the idle jets. This is a little more tricky but not too bad...Basically you can tune just about any car in the world with an F8 or an F9 idle jet. ( YES there are exceptions to this and I am well aware of them so don't send me nasty e-mails saying that your Mini only runs on F6 idles. This is a basic tuning primer and there is no need to get into vehicle specific problems.) The F8 is Leaner (Has a larger Air hole) than the F9...Soooooo. You can have a 50F8 and a 50F9 and both have the same amount of fuel but the 50F9 has a richer MIXTURE (Less Air to the same volume of fuel.) Generally speaking you should start with an F8 and play with the fuel size until you get close then experiment with an F9 to see if that works any better...

IDF carbs are similar to the DGV and DFV series in that the air is mixed internally. There is no F Number to deal with. The IDA carbs have no Air Bleed Hole but do have an F number to identify this feature. It is an F10. The Air Bleed for the IDA carb is in the Idle Jet holder and it is metered similar to the DCOE. For those of you with multiple IDA or Rotary engines running a single 48 IDA you usually know what you are doing so I won't go into all the details on this.,..

Idle jets are in .5 steps...50,55,60,65 etc. The bigger the Idle jet number the richer the jet. 1 step in idle jet size can make a HUGE differerence. Do not go up or down more than 1 step at a time when tuning the idle circuit. 

Choke Tubes and the Main Circuit:
Okay...So now your car should idle correctly, the carbs are synched, the timing is set, everything is good....Time to get the main circuit right. Drive the car. It should come off of idle good and transition to the main circuit smoothly...If it falls on its face and will not take any throttle or runs better if you back off the then you could have a few different problems depending the type of carb. Before you blame the carb make sure you have the Fuel delivery right and the Spark Timing. If you do not have enough advance you will have this problem and it will have nothing to do with the carb tuning.

32/36 DGV, DGEV, DFV and DFEV
These carbs have fixed venturis so the choke size is not an issue. The pump jets are also not a problem. Do not mess with them. If you have a flat spot or hesitation when you first take off then it is likely that the idle circuit is too lean. If you know you have the idle circuit right then the primary main jet is too small. Increase the main jet size 2 steps at a time. (150 main is a 1.5mm hole...Main jets are in steps of 5. eg: 150, 155,160,etc.) Keep checking the plugs after driving it for a few minutes (Do not let it idle when checking the spark plug color for the main jets. Drive the car above 2000-3000 RPM for a few minutes then shut the engine off before letting it idle then check the plugs. If the car then transitions fine but hesitates or falls on it face when the secondary is opened you need to work on the Secondary main jet....
A good option to playing around with your 32/36 Weber jetting is to just get one of our Custom Performance Jetting Kits....We offer these for all Single 32/36 DGV and DGEV applications operating from Sea Level to approx 4000 Ft...Above 4000 Ft you start having more altitude problems and the vehicle needs to be tuned as outlined here. Another good option is to install a Halmeter AF30 Air Fuel Ratio Gauge to help you with tuning. It is fast and accurate and will take alot of the guesswork out of it. This is a particularly valuable tool for cars that get track use so that you make sure you do not lean out and put a hole in a piston...

38/38 DGES 
These carbs have fixed venturis so the choke size is not an issue. The pump jets are also not a problem. Do not mess with them. If you have a flat spot or hesitation when you firts take off then it is likely that the idle circuit is too lean. If you know you have the idle circuit right then the main jet is too small....Increase the main jet size 2 steps at a time. (150 main is a 1.5mm hole...Main jets are in steps of 5. eg: 150, 155,160,etc.) Keep checking the plugs after driving it for a few minutes (Do not let it idle when checking the spark plug color for the main jets. Another good option is to install a Halmeter AF30 Air Fuel Ratio Gauge to help you with tuning. It is fast and accurate and will take alot of the guesswork out of it. This is a particularly valuable tool for cars that get track use so that you make sure you do not lean out and put a hole in a piston...

DCOE, IDF or IDA
Here we go....This is the real tricky part. I feel that Sidedraft DCOE , IDF and IDA carbs are easy to tune but you have to have a real feel for Rich and Lean and understand how the carb works. To get a good understanding of this I cannot recommend too highly to get the Weber Factory Tuning manual and really understand what each component does. That said this is the real Cliff Notes version of tuning the power circuit of these carbs.

Choke Tube or Main Venturi size is the basis for everything in tuning DCOE, IDA and IDF carbs. If you get the Venturis wrong you will never get it running right. Too big and you will always have a flat spot that you cannot tune...Too small and it will always run rich and not make any power. If you have poor throttle response at low RPM 

This is a guideline only to get you started or to make sure you are not totally out of range making it very difficult to tune. There are many of you running cars successfully with choke sizes outside this range so don't e-mail me about it. The difficulty in tuning these types of cars is that there are many combinations that work well depending on the engine and the state of tune. That is why everything is tunable. You can tailor the carbs to suit your needs, driving style, engine, location, weather and altitude conditions, etc.....

Here is a very basic chart of what venturi sizes you need to popular vehicles and engine sizes for STREET USE...All out race engines are a totally different story. Use the engine size and HP rating to estimate what you need for your car or engine if it is not listed.

This is a guideline only to get you started or to make sure you are not totally out of range making it very difficult to tune. There are many of you running cars successfully with choke sizes outside this range so don't e-mail me about it. The difficulty in tuning these types of cars is that there are many combinations that work well depending on the engine and the state of tune. That is why everything is tunable. You can tailor the carbs to suit your needs, driving style, engine, location, weather and altitude conditions, etc.....

Do not try to choke down a DCOE carb that is too large to try and cure a problem...you will just create more problems....A 45 DCOE should NEVER need less than a 34mm choke to run properly. If it does then the carbs are too large or you have another problem...A 40 DCOE can use as small as a 28mm choke tube but chances are the performance will not be good with anything smaller than a 30mm choke....I have found that a correctly sized 40 DCOE application should always stat with a 30mm choke and do up to a 34mm max....Bigger or smaller than that and you probably have either the wrong size carbs or another problem that is causing you to tune outside of this range...This same info applies to IDF carbs as well...

Main Jets:

Air Corrector Jets

Emulsion Tubes:

Pump Jets and Pump Bleed Backs:

Pump Rods:

In Stock Now.

Check these out. They are always being updated and offer the current best prices on our most popular parts. 


     
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* Lynx Ramflo Cross Flow Intake manifold...
* This is the ONLY single sidedraft manifold that works....
* Unique cross ram design ensures proper fuel delivey to all cylinders..
* Performance that rivals Dual Sidedrafts on stock or mildly modified engines.
* Outstanding performance and throttle response...
* No Brake Booster Interference
* Great for Blow Through Turbo applications
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Water bypass kit $109   Order Now
Contains a new metal water line, new heater return hose, reducer hose, assorted plugs for the engine block and water manifold, plus all needed hose clamps and washers. 
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Air Filter Options: Remember, the kit comes with open Air Horns Only. Select from the choice below for Air Filters.

Open Stacks Only  as supplied in kit	Ramflo Style Filter	Snap On Stack Screens	Clamp on Uni-Filters
No charge.	$45  Order Now	$25  Order Now	$27  Order Now

Optional:
Proper Electric Fuel pump and mechanical pump block off plate....      $89.00  Order Now
This is an important option for race use...The stock mechanical pump will not deliver the proper amount of fuel to keep the flot bowl full under hard acceleration and racing conditions. ls also a must for converting Fuel Injected cars to Carb system...320i, 318i, Tii...

Cable Linkage kit Retrofit:                                                                    $98.00 Order Now
This is Supplied in all new kits and Manifolds. This is only if you have an existing manifold that does not have linkage 
This is the complete cable linkage kit to replace the Mechanical Linkage for the Single Sidedraft application.
Cable and housing, Mounting Brackets for Carb and Pedal. Swivels and cable anchors, throttle arm.

         
Top View                                                   Bottom View 

Single side draft manifold for a BMW 2002 or early 3 series. Utilizes our patented Crossover design for even fuel distribution to each cylinder. Where other single carburetor manifolds fail, this one is in a class of its own. Your engine will run awesome... only surpassed by a dual Weber 45mm side draft setup. For your Weber or Dellorto carb to be utilized with this manifold, we can provide you with carb settings (i.e. the ones we used when we dynometered and perfected this setup on our prototype, though your engine may require you to make some changes as all engines run differently and therefore require different carb settings). This is an internationally patented item so you will not see another manifold like this available. We have been producing these manifolds in Australia for over 25 years so the sales volume speaks for itself. Others have tried to copy this manifold but their results are horrible! Buy with confidence as you will be pleased with the performance. 

Here is the mechanism by which this manifold works for all those that are confused by the crossover manifold concept... The manifold runners on cylinders 1&4 connect to one venturi (V1) of the carb, therefore cyls 2&3 connect to the other side of the carb (V2). With the firing order being 1,3,4,2 the intake pulse demand from the first cylinder(1) draws mixture from V1 venturi of the carb. The next one demanding a lungful is cylinder 3, which draws from venturi V2. The next one in the sequence is cylinder 4, which draws from the same venturi (V1) as number 1 cylinder and then number 2 cylinder draws from number 2 venturi(V2). You can see that the carb takes turns in feeding the cylinders due to the crossover design of the runners feeding each cylinder a fresh batch of air/fuel from the carb, alternating throats as it goes! 

The patented crossover design does just that- it splits the pulses (in firing order sequence) that are created by the downward movement of the piston so as one throat receives one pulse, and the next pulse (in the firing order sequence) goes to the other side of the carb. This way the pulses that the carb sees are evenly spaced, allowing better cylinder filling than the conventional design, hence more power and torque. Holley patented a style of manifold like this for the dual plane 4bbl S/B Chev, as they suffer from the same problem of all the available mixture being siphoned off from one side of the manifold, leaving nothing for the next one in the sequence (The firing order for the Chev is 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5 and then the cylinder next in sequence is siphoning 7, then obviously 2). 

This is an extraordinary manifold that we back 100%. You will be happy with the unparalleled results. Please contact us if you have any further questions as we would be happy to assist you. 

Please contact us if you have any questions on this item.

ALL THE TRICK CARBS, HEADERS, HIGH COMPRESSION PISTONS, CAMSHAFTS, ETC. DO YOU NO GOOD IF YOU CAN'T BURN THE FUEL MIXTURE IN THE CYLINDER. FOLLOWING ARE THE DIFFERENT IGNITION OPTIONS WE OFFER AND RECOMMEND.

Why Tii distributors ? Because they have a much more aggressive advance curve than the standard unit. The BMW combustion chamber lends itself to tremendous amounts of spark advance at low rpm, which translates into lots of low speed punch, unfortunately it also raises the hydrocarbons at smog time. 

If you are stuck using a standard vacuum advance distributor for financial or Smog reasons then just disconnect and plug the hose to the vacuum unit and advance the distributor to approx 14-16 degress advance at 900-1000 RPM and test drive the car. If you do not have a detonation problem then you are okay. I guarantee you will feel a lot more response from the engine and most likely better gas mileage. Be sure and put it back to original for smog time and back off the timing a bit at a time if it detonates. 

Our Ultimate Spark Package has continued to be a very popular way to get the most streetable spark output in an affordable package. It is an easy to install complete spark system that will transform your cold starting (Especially in a Tii.) and improve your gas mileage. A must for dual carb equipped cars or engines running in the 5000+ RPM range on the track or street.

If you want true state of the art ignition we offer the D.I.S. distributorless direct fire ignition systems. Eliminate the distributor forever in one easy to bolt on and run igntion system. 

Spark Tech Page for Weber Carbs:

Components and conversions:

Ultimate Spark Package: This is the stuff. Outrageous spark. (Don't get shocked. It will knock you on your butt !) MSD-6A Capacative discharge box, Tach Adapter (So your tach reads correctly), 8mm Wire set, Pertronix Electronic Ignition conversion, Bosch Red Coil, NGK BP6ES Spark Plugs, Detailed Wiring Instructions. This can be done by anyone that can hook up a stereo. 
$495

New 2002 Tii Centrifugal Advance Distributor: Currently not available due to the ridiculous price increase on this particular product. If you do need one we can order them. Call or email for pricing

Bosch Red Coil: 47,000 volts. Quick rise time. For use with electronic ignition conversion only or 320I with factory electronic ignition. DO NOT USE WITH POINTS ! 
$59

Bosch Blue Coil: The standard replacement coil for Point and Condenser systems. Internally ballasted to keep points from burning. 
$39

Accel 8mm wire sets: Super High temp Silicone boots. Supressor core wire for no radio interference. Short coil wire only. If you have the long coil wire with the coil mounted up at the front of the engine compartment you will need to relocate it to the proper location next to the distributor. This will greatly increase the life of the wires and the spark output. 
$49

MSD-6A capacitive discharge ignition box: for use with points or electronic ignition. Mandatory on all Improved Touring road race cars or anything with dual carbs. Part of our Ultimate Spark Package. 
$239

MSD Tach Adapter: This is a must when installing an MSD when using the stock Tachometer. This give the proper signal from the MSD to the original BMW Tach. Included in the Ultiamte Spark Pacakge
$59

Pertronix Mag Pick-up Electronic Ignition Conversion: This is the one we use. Easy drop in 15 minute installation. 
$109

Electromotive XDI distributorless direct fire ignition system: The Latest and Greatest Electromotive XDI unit. 
Complete system ECU, Coil Pack, with magnetic pickup sensor and Bracket, crankshaft trigger assembly that includes a new lightweight single groove pulley with trigger wheel mounted, and a set of 8mm plug wires. 100% adjustable for advance curve, rate of rise, initial timing and rev limiter. Absoloutely the finest system in the world. Will give a minimum 10% power increase on a completely stock engine, more on modified vehicles. A must for engines operating over 7000 RPM for extended periods of time. Unsurpassed spark timing accuracy and output.
$1195

Add $45 for Aluminum O-Ringed Distributor Plug 

XDi Package with ECU, Harness, Coil Pack, Trigger wheel and Mag Pickup Only 
$875

        
818 764-1901     818 764-0155 fax    e-mail: topend@racetep.com

JE Forged Pistons for BMW Engines 
Forget the imitators and low price, low quality imposters. JE is the finest forged piston made for your Street or Race engine...Normally aspirated, Turbo, Supercharged, NOS..You name it and Top-End and JE can supply you a piston to fit your needs.
We are THE source for ALL BMW Forged pistons. 
OEM Parts for ALL BMW Models at Warehouse Direct Prices 
http://www.BMWCarPartz.com

Examples of Pistons we have made from Samples that were sent in to us showing what we can do for you 
Click Here for a list of Custom Options available on Made-To-Order pistons 

High Heat Ceramic Coated Crowns and Moly Coated skirts avaialble on all piston at the time of ordering for $40 per piston. This is a must for High Boost Turbo and NOS Appications 

Other lines we supply to go along with your JE Pistons. Click logo for information

We are the official JE Pistons BMW Distributor. We have the blueprints for all popular (and some not so popular) BMW engines in almost any Bore size, Compression ratio, Stroke, and Rod combination...If you call JE for BMW pistons chances are they will just refer you to us....

All BMW pistons are made to order and order time is usually 3-4 weeks. We have many of the Euro piston blueprints as well as the US models...In some cases if it is a dome that we do not have a profile for we may require a sample to make them but we have been able to make 90+% of the requested pistons just from our extensive library of BMW Blueprints and Job #'s. We recommend Total-Seal Gapless rings on all BMW sets. Please see our BMW page for more BMW Performance information. http://www.2002performance.com

OEM Parts for ALL BMW Models at Warehouse Direct Prices 
http://www.BMWCarPartz.com

JE Pistons are the finest quality aftermarket forged pistons available. The special 2618 aircraft alloy allows much tighter Piston-To-Wall clearances ( Typically .0035-.0045 )than all the other manufactures. This means a quiet street engine that does not need excessive temperatures to seal.

We are proud to be a JE Warehouse Distributor and can supply you with pistons for any Import engine at the best possible price. We will not be undersold on any shelf stock piston from JE. In addition to the shelf stock pistons that JE offers we can custom make you a piston for almost any application..Big bores, Turbo or NOS, Strokers, whatever you want, we can probably make it. Check our Custom Piston Order page for more information

As one of JE's biggest distributors we have very good order time on all custom sets...Our orders get priority and that means you will get your parts faster....Typically a custom set from us takes 3-4 weeks and sometimes even faster....If your piston has to be made from a sample it may take a little longer....Rush and Expedited orders are available for those engine emergencies. There is an extra fee for Rush orders but sometimes you just need them faster....

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